Remember how I said that my early childhood memories were tied to food in some magical, irreversible way, as if there was some kind of osmosis going on that I cannot understand, but that brings a sense of well being when remembering them both emotional and physical?
Well, this past week I got up here and there, mostly there because gravity and I had a serious discussion and gravity was determined to win it. Stubborn as I am I took to bed not to give up and stayed there most of the time, feeling both miserable and at the same time plotting my revenge against this force that keeps me from doing what I want. And what I wanted the most was a bowl of Hot and Sour soup. The real thing, the same soup Second Sister used to bring to my bed - only after nanny would leave with me her chicken broth with lemon - saying "no, that no good for sick baby. This good and you better soon". Their rivalry for the children's affection was epic and of course we were the blessed beneficiaries of that which educated my palate in ways that I could have never done for myself I am sure.
Indeed I was not only better after eating it but covered with sweat which I suspect got rid of whatever was ailing me at the time, although I am certain my Mother would correct me by saying that horses sweat, men perspire and women glow. Was I brought up in a Victorian household or what? Don't answer that. Anyway, this is the real thing. Do not try to make it unless you can really get all the ingredients. It isn't worth your time or the flavor. But if you can get them, be prepared. This must be what Chinese Nirvana tastes like if one could taste it. It is great and although they used Tapioca starch or flour at home, I find that cornstarch works just as well, providing one adds just enough to thicken it and not enough to build a brick. Yes, it takes time to build the blocks of ingredients that go into it, but anything worth having is worth working for and this is one of those pivotal meals where body and soul are deeply satisfied and the day after tastes just as good if not better. So here, Second Sister Hot and Sour Soup:
click on the picture to see all the ingredients
From left:
Marinated Pork sirloin
peanut oil
Cloud Mushrooms
Chinese Black Mushrooms
Chopped ginger
Thinly sliced Shiitake Mushrooms (we like dried ones better)
Egg beaten with Sesame oil
Chicken broth
Dark soy sauces with vinegar and hot pepper oil
Organic firm tofu
Tiger Lily shreds
Chopped green scallions
Fresh bamboo shoots sliced into slivers
Cilantro leaves
Ingredients
Pork marinade:
4 ounces of Pork sirloin, sliced thin and cut into strips
4 tablespoons dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons sesame oil
2 teaspoons cornstarch
Peanut oil to sautee the Pork
8 dried wood ear mushrooms - also called cloud mushrooms
8 dried shiitake mushrooms
A handful of tiger lily buds - also called Golden Needles
1/2 cup of thinly sliced bamboo shoots ( in our Oriental markets we can find some already cooked, whole and packed in such a way that there is no need to boil them to take away the bitterness when fresh, but I imagine one could use canned ones if soaked in cold water for a while to take away that "tin flavor" I find rather unappetizing, and then drained well )
1 slice of fresh ginger the size of a silver dollar about 1-inch thick, chopped very fine.
1/2 brick of firm tofu cut into small dice size
6 cups chicken broth
Dark soy sauce called also Double black soy sauce but any soy would do.
Chinkiang Vinegar - or red wine vinegar
Pepper to taste( I use Szechuan pepper but white would do)
Hot chili oil, to taste, optional
3 Tbsp cornstarch dissolved in 1/4 cup water
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 egg, beaten with the sesame oil
4 scallions sliced green tops included
Fresh cilantro, leaves pulled from the stem.
Marinate the pork for at least one hour in the refrigerator making sure all of it is covered with the marinade. This gives you time to get the rest of the ingredients ready. Soak the dry mushrooms in hot water for at least 30 minutes. When using dry Black Chinese mushrooms after soaking them, rinse them and squeeze them between your fingers to get as much water out as possible. Then cut the mushroom around the stem and discard the stems. Soak the lily buds and after twenty minutes rinse and dry them well. Cut off the hard end, you will know it because it looks just like what it is, the hard end of a lily. Shred the lilies into two or three shreds.
Bring the broth to a boil in a large pot.
In a skillet put some peanut oil, enough to sautee the pork in small batches, add the chopped ginger and the pork and sautee just until it changes color. Add to the chicken broth with all the mushrooms, bamboo shoots, lily buds, and the tofu. When it comes back to a boil add the soy sauce, vinegar and pepper to taste. Now here everything is up to the person who is both making and tasting the soup. Since I use unsalted chicken broth I may need to add some salt remembering that soy sauce can be quite salty but, since I like my soup really dark and strong, I start by adding about a quarter cup of soy and then half as much vinegar, but I start small and keep on adding until I find the balance I am after. I do not believe we all have the same palate when it comes to foreign foods in particular. So go with your palate and add carefully since obviously we cannot subtract anything here.
Once the broth comes to a soft boil again, add the cornstarch - Second Sister used to stir only in one direction and make sure I understood that, no telling why. I just do it. When it begins to thicken, remove from the heat and again, stirring only in one direction, add the egg beaten with the sesame oil. Pour into serving bowls and add the chopped scallion, cilantro and a dash of hot pepper oil if you like.
This is to me the best Hot and Sour soup I ever tasted. Still is, maybe because I truly believed when she said to me "This good and you better soon". Love and food, never too far apart when the cook tells you that. Indeed. Enjoy this with my love and gratitude for all of your caring during these trying times.
